Cusco

On Wednesday, February 16, we drove away from the Cusco train station and made for our hotel -- on into Cusco's historical center and around the famous Plaza de Armas -- and then up and away from the Plaza. Our taxi driver drove down a tiny and cramped one-way street and stopped in front of a dark wooden door. He helped us get our bags out of the trunk and then sped away as the honks of other cars came from behind. 

It was about 8pm as we checked into our hotel, El Balcón. I had booked the hotel through booking.com, and knew that there would be a restaurant on-site. Our plan was to eat at the hotel restaurant and then promptly fall into bed. But upon checking in, we learned that the restaurant was closed. We were told to head back toward Plaza de Armas to find something to eat. Then we were shown to our room.

We walked into our room and saw...three twin beds. Three. Twin. Beds. For four people. Oh my word. I had done this, I had done this! I had screwed up this hotel booking! I scurried to the hotel's front desk and confessed I had made a terrible mistake -- that there were four of us, not three of us, and did the hotel have a room with more beds? Nope; the room that could have held four people was booked and not available, so sorry. I trudged back to our room and berated myself. Three twin beds! How did this happen?! But we couldn't dwell on the issue; we were all hungry and needed dinner.

We walked toward Plaza de Armas and found the first viable restaurant. While waiting for our food to arrive, I looked for other nearby hotels that could fit a family of four. I was getting close to booking the Casa Andina Standard in Cusco, but my credit card information didn't go through. I knew the Casa Andina was just off the Plaza, so I ran out of the restaurant (this is how desperate I was) and used Google Maps to find it. While showing the man at the front desk my attempt at reserving their last-minute rate, my phone died. And the man seemed perplexed at my story; he let me know they didn't have a room that could fit four people, but I could get two adjoining rooms for $140 a night. That was too rich for my blood, especially since I had already paid for two nights at El Balcón. I gave up the hunt and ran back to the restaurant, where my food was now waiting for me.

By the time our dinner was over, it was late, and we had to get to bed. Wyatt and I bunked together in the third twin bed, and we made it decently through the night. When morning arrived, we decided to stay put at El Balcón -- we didn't need the added expense or headache of moving hotels. I will tell you what though -- I (hopefully) will not be making that kind of hotel reservation mistake again [insert face palm here].

On Thursday morning, I got up early to go for a run. Two miles later, I was back in our hotel room. Everywhere I turned, there was cobblestone, and the streets were a bit maze-y, and I didn't want to get lost. So, just like my hotel booking, my run was a bust. 😉 But it was all good because El Balcón has amazing coffee and eggs for breakfast, and we enjoyed our time in the sun-filled breakfast nook.

Tim wants coffee.

These two want breakfast.

The padlock to our room. Quaint or creepy?

A most delicious breakfast!

We used Thursday morning to catch up on some schoolwork. When we got hungry for lunch, we walked to Plaza de Armes and found a spot to eat there. Following lunch, we met a Cusco guide, Fredy, who happened to be Elisban's (our Machu Picchu guide) cousin. I had asked Elisban for a guide recommendation, and he had connected us to Fredy. Fredy was great; he took us to the San Pedro Market and told us some cool stuff about Plaza de Armas and then walked us through a couple of Incan architectural hot spots. 

In Incan times, Plaza de Armes was called ‘Haukaypata’ which is a Quechua word meaning ‘place of ceremony or party,’ alluding to the important activities that were carried out in this place. The plaza is also called ‘Wakaypata’ which means ‘place of weeping,' in honor of Incan leader Tupac Amaru, who was executed in the plaza in 1572. (And yes, 2Pac was named after this same Incan leader.)

A stone signifying one of the four streets leading away from Cusco to a region of the Incan empire. Also, do you see the puma? The Incans built Cusco in the shape of a puma. There are allusions to pumas all around Cusco.  

Entering San Pedro Market.

I will take everything in this stall, please. #chocolatefordays

Another stall.

A stall with hundreds of potatoes. Peru has about 4,000 types of potatoes. (I had no idea. I always thought Ireland won that race!)

Following Fredy (gray hat, blue backpack) through Plaza de Armes.

In front of the 12-Angled Stone, laid by Inca masons over 700 years ago (no mortar!), and considered a National Heritage Object. The stone was originally part of the Inca palace called Palacio Inca Roca.

Around the corner from the 12-Angled Stone is this masterful wall. Fredy is pointing out the puma -- the Incans carved and set rocks in this wall in the design of a puma. In this photo, you can see the head and the beginning of the puma's body.

That night, we again walked to the Plaza to find some dinner. We were astounded -- and totally put off -- by all the restaurant and store owners hawking their goods. Everywhere we went in Cusco (and we only stayed in the historical part of town), we were accosted. We had menus thrust in our faces, handicraft items dangled in front of us; clearly, this is how advertising is managed and promoted. I'm sure at times it's effective, but we were seriously over it -- quickly.

On Friday morning, we got up, had breakfast, and then packed up our bags. We left our bags at the hotel and wandered back into Plaza de Armes. We passed the Plaza and headed for the Qoricancha, also known as the Inca Temple of the Sun. When the Spanish arrived in Cusco, they destroyed most of Qoricancha, and the Santo Domingo Church was built on the foundations and the remaining walls of the temple, preserving only a small part of its original build. After our visit to Qoricancha, we hiked back to our hotel, grabbed our bags, jumped in a taxi, and drove to the airport.

I literally cannot get over any of the Incan stonemasonry (this is at Qoricancha). It's out of this world.

A view of Qoricancha.

We really enjoyed Cusco -- it's got a ton of history and it's beautiful and there's a lot to do. If you're going to Machu Picchu, it's a must-see part of Peru. However, take it from me, just double-check your hotel booking -- specifically, the number of beds. (Good thing Wyatt's a little guy!)

It's crazy to think we've got about a week left. I mean, where did the time go?! Are we ready to head back home? I'm not sure, but we'll be thinking and processing and reminiscing and still planning this next week. 

Also, the kids have become crazy about Peruvian Hairless Dogs (just google it). This one is named Francis, and we found him in Cusco.

I don't find these dogs all that attractive, but the kids are OBSESSED.